Last night's antics saw me and Sarah top out on 'Big Fly Direct' (E1 5a, 5a, 5a) in the fading light. A nice route with a big feel to it. Three quite contrasting pitches; never technically desperate, but occasionally slightly run-out. The only thing that distracted was the huge loose block at the second belay. A TV-sized block that wobbles if you breathe too hard. The fall line goes straight down the pitch, too.
The route and grade made me think about the weird nature of the UK trad scale. This route felt correctly graded, yet it's the same grade as 'Three Pebble Slab' at Froggat. The routes couldn't have been more different. Maybe short, bold grit routes are better served by a bouldering grade?
Anyway, more running around the Downs tonight.
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