The dumbing down of America

The Bush administration of neocon neanderthals seems set on turning back the clock to the middle ages, by gradually reducing the status of the teaching of Darwinian Evolution in the schools. They're peddling the common misunderstanding of the word 'theory' as meaning 'unproven conjecture'. Evolution is probably the single best supported theory in existence today, and the probability of it being fundamentally incorrect is infinitesimally close to zero. These people just don't understand the scientific process. What's the next target, Einstein's theory of relativity?

The problem is that uneducated fools are all too happy broadcasting their ignorance. We need a champion of rationality. Step up to the plate, Mr Dawkins.

This makes me angry. Stupidity is worrying when displayed by the powerful.

Yesterday

saw quite a lot of climbing, both the luch time antics at Winterbourne and an evening route at Wintour's Leap, 'African Killer Bee' (VS 4c) led by Sarah. She went through the full spectrum of emotions on this route, ranging from "I hate Wintour's Leap!" to "Really really nice route" when pulling over. It was of course way below her ability (she's really an E1 leader that occasionally manages to convince herself that she can't lead vdiff), but she got a bit thrown by the fact that this route shared a section with 'Mosquito Bite' (E1 5b). Now, the fact that she recently sailed up this route, too, didn't seem to matter. Once she put her head down and got on with it she cruised it effortlessly, as she normally does. Paul was having a rematch with 'Flyover' nearby with Tim, and managed it successfully this time around. I should get on it, too, soon.

Athletics

The Swedish ladies are ruling the roost in the Athletics World Championships, Helsinki. After Carolina Klüft's gold in the heptathlon, Kajsa Bergqvist and Emma Green secured the gold and bronze in the high jump last night. Especially impressive effort from Kajsa who snapped her achilles tendon clean off only eleven months ago. On Sunday it's Stefan Holm's turn to show if he can repeat the gold performance from the Athens olympics in the men's high jump final. Shame Christian Olsson, the hands down favourite tripple jumper, is injured. Something's happened in Swedish athletics, and it's very impressive.

But what have they ever done at Stanage, eh :)

Got my Crux sack in the post yesterday, and very nice it is, too. I filled it with rack + two half ropes, and it's a vast improvement on my old, tired Lowe sack. It's got that bomb-proof feel to it. Paul and I are hopefully off for a cheeky lunch-time boulder session at a near by crag X. My elbow is sore still, but banking on being able to do some lower intensity stuff. Indooring is out for a while. Tonight Sarah and I are heading to the Crag of Dreams and hopefully Sarah will lead something. She did well in Pembroke the other weekend, but Wintour's doesn't work for her for some reason.

[update] Just back from two hours at Winterbourne Down - lovely little sandstone bluff by a creek. Nothing to write home about in the grand scheme of things, but a nice little place for a lunch time boulder session in the sun. Did two recorded routes at E3 and E1, but more like V0 highball over a pad. No one's shouting at me yet for being extraordinary late back from lunch :)

Gardening leave

No climbing this weekend, as my right elbow is very sore. Don't want to develop tendonitis at this stage so will take it easy for a while. Sarah's away in Southampton on a hen weekend. I expect nothing but carnage. Went for a medioker run, and spent the day pruning the trees in the garden which had grown a tad unruly. Woke up from the smell of burning rubber last night and went out to see that some scrote had torched the neighbour's vintage mini. It was parked next to my car, which is now covered in soot, but looks otherwise intact.

Shockingly, Robin Cook is reported to have died whilst walking in the Scottish hills. One of the most courageous UK politicians around, and his voice of reason will be sorely missed in the political landscape.

Oh, and England is actually in the lead after the first innings in the second Ashes test.

More

..sunshine again! I can't believe it. Hopefully should mean not getting wet & muddy running tonight. Anyway, Glyn just handed in his notice after becoming increasingly disillusioned with the way this company is run. Obviously I can't blame him for that, seeing that I've just done the same, but it leaves young Steve as the most senior developer, and he's only been here a few months. Interesting times ahead, no doubt.

Anyway - worked a few problems down the wall last night, but without any real enthusiasm. My toe finally went through the front of my rock boot, so I'll have to pop down to Snow & Rock to get a new pair. I've really liked this pair, even if they're probably not ideal for the sort of stuff we'll be doing in Yosemite. Might look into getting a pair of La Sportiva Katanas, which is reportedly a good all-round shoe.

Sun

I can see the sun, it's a miracle! Shame we've arranged to go indooring working the 7b circuit. Did the 2 x Downs loop last night, at a reasonable 52. That was faster than I had intended, as I foolishly decided to try to keep up with Sarah's pace for the first lap. This got me around in about 25, but then I was suffering endlessly for the next lap. Angus came around in the evening and we finally managed to watch the concluding two episodes of '24'. Apparently, Fox has commissioned two more seasons, but I don't think I'll bother watching it, as it's rapidly becoming a case of deja-vu. Funnily (or disturbingly, if you prefer), there's been quite a few mentions of Jack Bauer and his interrogation methods in the public debate surrounding the recent London terrorist attacks. Apart from the unfortunate octuple-tap of the innocent Brazilian electrician, the police has actually been remarkably successful in wrapping up the terrorist cells, but the old adage still stands - the police has to be successful every time, whereas the terrorists only once.

Anyway. Release your books.

Pembroke

We made it to Pembroke after all. We were umming and aahing for ages on Friday night looking at various weather forecasts that all appeared to contradict eachother, but finally went for it. It lashed it down pretty much all the way there, but it was dry in Bosherston itself by the time we pitched our tent. During the night the heavens opened, and our hearts sank. By the time we rolled out of bed, it was down to a drizzle, and we considered cutting our losses and heading back to Bristol. In the end, we decided to head for the north coast and Carreg-y-Barcud, which turned out to be a fortunate decision. The weather gradually improved, and we ended up having a pleasant afternoon on the immaculate slabs. I had wanted to do 'Sinecure', but the tide was making that impossible. Sarah led a vdiff up the right hand corner of the main wall, and I got on 'Beyond the Azimuth' (E1 5b), a gradually widening blind crack that cuts diagonally up to the left. Very strenuous, as to be able to place gear you have to hang with your hands and right foot in the crack, and the left foot smearing on nothing. I got to within a few moves of the top before it got the better of me, and I slumped spent onto a cam. Sarah got up it very nicely by keeping both feet and only one hand in the crack instead around the crux. This approach would probably have made it trickier to place gear, but she certainly pulled over in better shape than I did. The usual brain/brawn dichotomy.

Sarah then led a very nice HS called 'Metamorphosis'. Of course, 'Kitten Claws' has been a long standing ambition after some very inspiring photography on UKClimbing.com. After standing at its base, it will probably have to remain an ambition for a while longer while I grow some cojones :). I know people say it's not as blank, or hard as it looks, but from the bottom it looks E8, not E3. Besides, (flicking through book of excuses) I don't have any RPs. Yep, that's it.

On the Sunday the weather actually looked a bit better, and we headed for St Govan's. 'Tactician' (HVS 5a) is a multi-star route that was reported to be worth a go, and off I set. It's a gently overhanging corner crack which from the bottom appears to be mostly furnished with good juggery. The crux bulge was seeping and sodding wet. Limestone and water makes an unpleasant combination, and the route felt harder than it should have done as a consequence. We then trundled over and did 'Front Line', also rated HVS 5a. Its start was also seeping, but the rest of the route was a glorious joy. Sarah struggled on the wet starting mantle and didn't enjoy the route. By this time the drizzle was returning, and we decided to bail early, and headed back.

Overall, I think we made the best of it, and we got to see Carreg-y-Barcud, and it's certainly a place to which I'd like to return. Pembroke really is an amazing climbing destination.

Weather

The weather sucks in this country. Sucks rocks through straw. I blame Carol. Rain forecast for the whole of the UK, bar north western Scotland, and possibly west Wales for Sunday. Could chance Pembroke I guess, but it's a long way to go for what may amount to half a day of rock. Looks like it's Bristol Wall this weekend. Went there last night, in fact, as did the rest of the Westcountry climbing community. Working the latest incarnation of the numbered traverse on the 20 degree woody. Fifty moves long stamina fest, with an estimated grade of about 7b. Have it down to two overlapping sections. No real stopper moves this time around. There's a proper-hard version there too, same length, and not even the strong boys got beyond the first 28 moves.

In my iPod today, some political activism courtesy of the Asian Dub Foundation. Their '95 debut 'Facts and Fictions' is still as relevant today as it was then. It really is a kick-ass album.

More suspects held

A further nine arrests this morning in connection to the London bombings. Also, a carefully choreographed political theatre is in process to prepare for a 'groundbreaking' statement from the IRA. This will hopefully mean a complete withdrawal from all violent activities and a total decommission of all its weaponry. No doubt, this won't be enough for Rev Ian Paisly, but still, for the rest of NI it will hopefully mean a kick starting of the stalled peace process and a return to power sharing.

Ran two laps around the downs last night in a torrential downpour. Quite slow, 54 mins, but felt as if I could have carried on for another lap which is encouraging. Going down the wall tonight as it looks set to rain for the rest of the day.

[GPS plot of Downs run courtesy of Angus]

Arrests

Four people were detained in Brimingham this morning, one of which is suspected to be one of the failed bombers from the other day. He had to be tasered, as he was 'resisting arrest' apparently. He's been brought down to London for questioning, wheras the other three remain in Birmingham at present.

Paul and I had a good evening at Wintour's Leap, on 'Flyover' (E3 5b, 6a). Final pitch was sustained, but eminently doable - I had to grab a thread (post crux, annoyingly) after misreading the sequence and not having enough left in the tank to reverse and regroup. Gear was mainly pegs and threads (two of which were in-situ - thanks Tim!) and I'd put the grade at E2 5a, 5c - it was certainly a lot easier than 'Firefly'.

Weather's forecast to be shite for the rest of the week, probably including the weekend.

Tuesday

Run went OK last night, but my foot is stiff today. Good to see A & K last night, even if we had to defer '24' due to a technical fault. No worries - gives us another excuse to crack open a bottle of red at a later stage. Kate's apparently doing 7 mile runs in ~48 minutes which would mean an amazing improvement on her previous half marathon time if she keeps it up.

Paul and I are hopefully heading for Wintour's tonight for an epic excursion, weather permitting. Looking dull, but apparently should hold, according to the Beeb. Rest of the week predicted to be a wash-out, sadly. Unsure about the weekend, Pembroke or the Peak, hopefully.

Mathias has settled in in the ambassador's residence in Guatemala City. He's been living in all sorts of countries in the back and beyond, but even he, street-wise as he is, appears to be feeling a bit uneasy in GC, ranking as the murder capital of the world.

Had an email off Chris last night - he's visiting his folks in Hereford mid-week, and might pop down to Bristol for a visit. On his bike (nutter).

Work

The guy who was shot in the tube five times in the head by the police was innocent. Worst possible scenario unfolded. The marksman's job on the front line is not an enviable one, having to make such decisions on a split-second basis. I'm sure that The Sun regrets its distasteful headline 'One down, three to go'.

Anyway, got two routes in at Portland on Saturday before the rain rolled in. The weather cleared enough for the party to go ahead in its planned format, and everybody was happy. Lots of food and cake was had.

More running tonight. My left ankle is really giving me grief. After that we're off to Angus' and Kate's for some food + finishing off the last series of '24'.

Friday

The new bombs in London appears to have been of the same type like the previous set that caused such havoc two weeks ago. Fortunately, none of them actually detonated. Hopefully, this should mean plenty of forensics available. The world is changing. People are twitchy. The BBC are reporting that an 'asian' man was pursued by plain clothes police, thrown to the floor and shot 5 times at point blank just now. Let's just hope that it was justified.

On a more mundane note, the Ashes series have started. Must admit that as a foreigner on these shores, cricket remained a curious mystery for many years. However, a game that lasts for five days, taking daily tea breaks and sporting a rule set so complex as to eclipse even Mornington Crescent is quintessentially British, and winning the Ashes at Lords would be seen as the sporting achievement of a generation here. Perhaps the most amusing bit is the boxing-style slagging off of the opponent side in the press. The Aussies really have perfected the art of bullying, but it contrasts so brutally with the docile nature of the game. However, this time around it's the Aussies that are old and fat and England sporting a set of young, hungry players wanting badly to win. Maybe this is the year when the Ashes return to Lords' hallowed turf? So, what are the 11 ways to be out in cricket? Bowled, run-out, caught behind, LBW... answers on a post card, please.

Didn't make it outside last night, despite the fine weather. Did a brief bouldering and campussing session down the wall with Henk and Sarah, and met Bruno and Jen down there. Feeling undeservedly strong at the moment, but hurting like hell today, having not done any indoor training for yonks. Heading down Dorset way tonight for the Porter bash. Weather permitting, we'll sneak in some Portland or Swanage action tomorrow. Quite keen on some DWS, as I've never tried this. Bruno and Jen may head down that way, too, as it's likely the only dry part of the country if the forecasts hit pay dirt. They actually made it to Carreg-y-Barcud the other weekend, and dispatched the classics, including my top-of-wishlist 'Kitten Claws' and 'Sinecure'. Must get down there before leaving in October!

Ouch

More running last night, didn't go so well. Body's still aching from the previous run and climbing, and for the first time for ages I can really feel my left ankle that was badly broken a couple of years back. Nevermind. Sarah got herself some new running shoes (Brooks), from Easy Runner. They really are good to deal with. Plan is to get out on some rock tonight, but we'll see. Late night last night trying to book accomodation for Fiji. We'll go for the Beachcomber resort on the strength of friends' advice plus the fact that the diving outfit on the island is extremely well respected. Transfer times are short, and prices reasonable. You can stay in cheaper places, but after seven weeks of free camping in the states I'm sure a wee bit of comfort will not go amiss.

[13:45] BBC is reporting more tube 'incidents'. Picked up by Sky aswell. Let's hope for the best.

BFD

Last night's antics saw me and Sarah top out on 'Big Fly Direct' (E1 5a, 5a, 5a) in the fading light. A nice route with a big feel to it. Three quite contrasting pitches; never technically desperate, but occasionally slightly run-out. The only thing that distracted was the huge loose block at the second belay. A TV-sized block that wobbles if you breathe too hard. The fall line goes straight down the pitch, too.

The route and grade made me think about the weird nature of the UK trad scale. This route felt correctly graded, yet it's the same grade as 'Three Pebble Slab' at Froggat. The routes couldn't have been more different. Maybe short, bold grit routes are better served by a bouldering grade?

Anyway, more running around the Downs tonight.

Tuesday

Did two laps of the Downs last night; a smidgen under 7 miles. 52 minutes -- not exactly race pace, but at least an indicator that a half marathon in October is not entirely out of the question. Steve, the collegue opposite my desk, has promised that he'll stop smoking if I finish in the top 10. If he carries on placing bets like that, he won't exactly die homeless and broke, as they say.. Sarah was feeling a bit off colour with a dodgy gut so the margin between us was less than normal. The Downs circuit is much friendlier and flatter than our normal Horfield 10k loop, so maybe we'll stick to that for a while, at least until the weather becomes slightly less hot and sticky. We might even be able to entice Angus out. Apparently he's enjoying his new toy, the Garmin Forerunner runner's GPS. Similar to mine but with added heart rate monitor.

Sarah's sorting out Oz visas today, and I'll try to cancel my gym membership for the trip. Hoping to get out to the Crag of Dreams tonight for a cheeky after-work rock session. Sarah still can't see the greatness of the place, and would rather go to the Gorge (!). I do remember needing several trips to understand Wintour's back in the day though. Bristol really is a great place to be based for climbing. Ok, so we don't exactly have Stanage on our doorstep, but plenty of great stuff within 45 minutes drive. Hopefully we'll manage to squeeze in some convenience routes down at Portland this weekend before Daddy Porter's 60th party. Weather's looking so-so for the weekend though.

Back

Back in the UK after a week in Sweden. A scorcher, and no climbing bar a few half-hearted campus sessions. The coming week is looking to be hot and sticky, too. Good to see everybody again, and I'm happy we're keeping up the tradition of meeting up this week every year. Zoe's growing up to be a strong-willed little lady. Talloren really is the place to be on a summer's evening. It's been great being off work for a week. Now back into the daily grind again. Only two months to go! Judging from the AHut reports, Paul and Martin had a good time on the hallowed rock of Clogwyn D'ur Arddu.

Wintour's

Back at Wintour's Leap last night. A bit surreal given the unfolding events in the capital. Did Mosquito Bite (E1 4c, 5b) which was nice. Had a beer later with Paul who lives near by. He's off to Cloggy this weekend the lucky bugger. Weather looks set to be favourable, too. We're off to Sweden tomorrow morning for a week of doing not very much with the extended family. No climbing, but at least there's a campus board where we're heading :)

SimonA reported on the 'wormers' mailing list that he'd been in contact with all London wormers and that they are OK. Fortunately, Chris and Nana were out of the city for Nana's sister's wedding in Cornwall. Nana works right in the thick of it. 37 confirmed dead, expected to rise. UK has long experience with bombs in its cities, and will no doubt bounce back, undeterred. However, one cannot help but think that a new, frightening era has dawned if it is true that suicide bombers are operating on UK soil.

London

London is rocked by multiple blasts on the tube and on buses. Details are hazy, but lots of people appear to have died. The world is a rotten place. My heart goes out to anyone affected.

Peak Weekend

Went to the Peak District over the weekend, despite conflicting weather reports. Turned out to be great in the end -- it was raining on the way up, but Saturday dawned dry, albeit slightly overcast and dull. We had Millstone Edge virtually to ourselves. Did a few of the Embankment cracks and the glorious Bond Street. What a great route it is! Disappointed at having to take some tension on Embankment 3 at the crux. Went to Bamford for the first time on the Sunday and pottered around on easy stuff near the Salmon slab. Sarah is doing well on her leading, seems to have found her confidence. Witnessed some comedy stuff on Curving Crack that a surprising number of people appeared to struggle on.