Pembroke

We made it to Pembroke after all. We were umming and aahing for ages on Friday night looking at various weather forecasts that all appeared to contradict eachother, but finally went for it. It lashed it down pretty much all the way there, but it was dry in Bosherston itself by the time we pitched our tent. During the night the heavens opened, and our hearts sank. By the time we rolled out of bed, it was down to a drizzle, and we considered cutting our losses and heading back to Bristol. In the end, we decided to head for the north coast and Carreg-y-Barcud, which turned out to be a fortunate decision. The weather gradually improved, and we ended up having a pleasant afternoon on the immaculate slabs. I had wanted to do 'Sinecure', but the tide was making that impossible. Sarah led a vdiff up the right hand corner of the main wall, and I got on 'Beyond the Azimuth' (E1 5b), a gradually widening blind crack that cuts diagonally up to the left. Very strenuous, as to be able to place gear you have to hang with your hands and right foot in the crack, and the left foot smearing on nothing. I got to within a few moves of the top before it got the better of me, and I slumped spent onto a cam. Sarah got up it very nicely by keeping both feet and only one hand in the crack instead around the crux. This approach would probably have made it trickier to place gear, but she certainly pulled over in better shape than I did. The usual brain/brawn dichotomy.

Sarah then led a very nice HS called 'Metamorphosis'. Of course, 'Kitten Claws' has been a long standing ambition after some very inspiring photography on UKClimbing.com. After standing at its base, it will probably have to remain an ambition for a while longer while I grow some cojones :). I know people say it's not as blank, or hard as it looks, but from the bottom it looks E8, not E3. Besides, (flicking through book of excuses) I don't have any RPs. Yep, that's it.

On the Sunday the weather actually looked a bit better, and we headed for St Govan's. 'Tactician' (HVS 5a) is a multi-star route that was reported to be worth a go, and off I set. It's a gently overhanging corner crack which from the bottom appears to be mostly furnished with good juggery. The crux bulge was seeping and sodding wet. Limestone and water makes an unpleasant combination, and the route felt harder than it should have done as a consequence. We then trundled over and did 'Front Line', also rated HVS 5a. Its start was also seeping, but the rest of the route was a glorious joy. Sarah struggled on the wet starting mantle and didn't enjoy the route. By this time the drizzle was returning, and we decided to bail early, and headed back.

Overall, I think we made the best of it, and we got to see Carreg-y-Barcud, and it's certainly a place to which I'd like to return. Pembroke really is an amazing climbing destination.