Queenstown

Queenstown, the capital of cheap thrills, was our home for christmas. Anything remotely adventurous can be done here, for a small fee. The choice is bewildering. Bungy jumping originated here, but feels so last year. We weren't sure what to do to celebrate christmas, so we went gear shopping. After having suffered nearly three months of camping in a sleeping bag a few sizes too small, I splashed out on a nice new one made by Fairydown, a local outfit. We got chatting to a Brit working in the shop to fund his adventure racing, and he recommended doing the Routeburn Canyon and if that wasn't enough, to go for the so-called Canyon Swing. Bristol residents may be familiar with the popular - but illegal - rope swing off the Clifton suspension bridge. It's a bit like that, but bigger and badder.

The Boxing Day canyoning trip was most excellent, possibly the most fun event we've done in NZ. A series of jumps into waterfalls, abseils, ziplines and plain rock slides. Imagine a steeper version of Swildon's Hole, and take the roof off, and you're nearly there. Freezing water clean enough to drink. The start saw us walking across a foot bridge, and our guide pointing down to a small platform overlooking the waterfall. That's our insertion point. And far down there, the landing spot is just about visible. Or so it felt. A bunch of Japanese tourists tramping the Routeburn Track stopped to video us, as they do. I jumped first. You have to land on your arse, as the water is not quite so deep. After landing you swim over to a rigged rope and clip in, waiting for the rest. The rest of the trip was a sequence of jumps, some quite high, others less so, but with high precision landings required to fly through slots. A top day out. Our guides exhuded quiet competence, rather than the irritating 'surfer dude loudmouth attitude' that sadly seems to be spreading.

Christmas day saw us finally rigging the slackline on NZ soil to the amusement of most of the camp site. Two Aussie climbers had set camp next door. They were here on a mountaineering course, and were proficient enough to be able to slack with a beer in one hand and a joint in the other.

Today's event was the canyon swing. Two wires have been rigged to span the whole of the Shotover Canyon, and from this a contraption of climbing ropes are looped back to a narrow wooden platform. You step off this platform in a variety of ways and are treated to a 60m freefall into the canyon followed by a 200m arc, and speeds up to 150km/h. You have the choice of jump, some more weird than others. You can, for example, be duct-taped to a plastic chair and slowly lean backwards. Or hung upside down from your feet looking down. Stef opted for the 'pin drop': hands on your back, facing the direction of swing, and jump sideways out. Apparently, this gives a good 'ground rush'. They weren't wrong. I've done a few bungy jumps in the distant past, but this was scarier. My heart was pounding as I stepped out to the edge. Just one little jump to the side, but oh so hard. Suddenly the ground is approaching with an alarming speed. There is no jolt like a climbing fall or even a bungy jump, but a very gentle transition from fall to swing. As I am hoisted up, my bloodstream is awash with adrenaline, and it's on wobbly legs I walk back to the rest of the guys. Sarah's next.

Sarah was hestitant initially - she doesn't even like small jumps on the best of days. Yet here she is, strapped in, and actually smiling. She's doing the forward 'screem and flail' - and 'awesome achievement to make yourself jump', according to the company blurb. She looks back at me, and although she's still smiling, I know exactly what she's thinking: I don't want to! She looks over the edge, still hesitant for a moment, but then - with a scream - she's off. I say to the others that when she emerges again she will be wearing the biggest smile in the world and be wanting to have another go. Safe bet.

I've had enough, but Sarah wants more. She goes for the 'Elvis Cutaway', the king of all head rushes. She's suspended horizontally, face up, with her feet wrapped around the ropes infront of her. Arching her back backwards looking down, the jump master pulls the release cord, and down she goes, upside down through the arc for a few swings, before uncrossing her legs to release the rope to sit upright. Although visually more impressive, this was apparently easier, she said, as the jump moment is decided for you.

Today we're driving from Queenstown all the way up to Christchurch and tomorrow we'll be in Sydney.